The Chianti Grill

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Secret suspicions of an all-you-can-eat soup and salad restaurant floated through my head as I prepared to try the newly opened Chianti Grill in Roseville. And with exception of the lunch buffet offering, one look across the expansive dining room—the dark, polished woodwork, vaulted ceiling and Old World stone fireplace—and a quick peruse at the regular menu and all pre-conceived convictions were gone.

Sure there were the traditional Italian favorites like spaghetti and meatballs and lasagna, but there were also some non-traditional surprises. Spicy tender tips (beef tenderloin tips with Cajun seasonings) and mojo grilled tiger prawns (with smoky chipotle and mojo risotto)… on an Italian menu? Can they do that?

They can... and they did.

The beef tenderloin tips, cooked perfectly to order, were satisfyingly spicy and full of flavor and the tiger prawns, served over a decadently creamy risotto, practically leapt out of their shells begging to be eaten. And we were happy to oblige, finishing every bite of this fiery dish before looking around for more.

When asked about the inspiration for these dishes, Executive Chef Angelo Montes explained them as a tribute to both his native Italy and the cuisine of the Napa Valley area, which features fresh ingredients made with worldly influences. Taking a second look around the restaurant—the modern, clean lines and the menu of hearty steaks and plenty of seafood—and the tie to Napa Valley suddenly became clear.

Surprisingly, however, the traditional items on the menu were hit or miss. A hit was the bruschetta appetizer, which was crisp and fresh with vibrant tomatoes and basil and plenty of garlic. The chicken Sorrento, with capers, tomatoes, artichokes and a lemon-basil sauce, was simple and light but bordering on the ordinary. The misses were the lobster ravioli, a house special that was overcooked, heavy and muddled, and the pasta with marinara, which offered no zeal.

If the lunch crowd is an indicator of future success, The Chianti Grill will prosper in their new location as a solid dining option for professionals in the area. And if their steaks are anything close to the quality of their sister Porterhouse restaurants in the Twin Cities, their dinner crowd will be just as satisfied.

Katie Cannon is the blogger behind Camacho Watcho as well as an up-and-coming Twin Cities photographer. She both works and plays in the Mill District of downtown Minneapolis.

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