Sea Change Review

(Credit: Katie Cannon)

When it comes to change, some may naturally feel trepidation. But when it comes in the form of Sea Change, The Guthrie’s new main dining concept replacing The Cue, let all apprehensions subside. With a complete menu overhaul, including new pre-theater and late night menus and an updated décor, Sea Change may be just what The Guthrie needed to re-energize its dining scene.

At the helm of it all is Tim McKee, 2009 James Beard award winner of Best Chef in the Midwest. Straying a bit conceptually from his other popular Twin Cities restaurants, Barrio, Solera, La Belle Vie and Smalley’s Caribbean Barbecue, he puts his spin on a savory and visually stimulating menu that highlights fresh, sustainable seafood.

The raw bar menu offers several dishes such as spot prawns with avocado, chile and orange and Bristol Bay king crab with cucumber and lemon. We sampled the fresh albacore tuna with watermelon, jalapeno and mint. The fresh and lively mint comes through with a clean flavor that balances the sweetness of the watermelon and delicate pinch of maldon salt. This type of flavor balance and creative twists continue as the throughout the menu.

The menu’s starters and entrees area a spectrum of the expected seafood entrees of scallops, arctic char and rainbow trout to land fare like roasted chicken, braised beef short rib and grilled duck. Sampling from the starter menu, we tried the restaurant’s signature item of grilled octopus with salsa verde, Spanish peppers and pimento. The meaty octopus has a deliciously sweet and crispy exterior that pairs nicely with the smoky paprika. And from the entrée menu, we tried the sea scallops - perfectly seared and tender served with whole and pureed sweet corn, salty chorizo and spicy jalapeno.

But Sea Change’s transformation doesn’t stop with the menu; the updated décor is worth a mention. While the massive space remains, along with its tie to the signature bold blue theme like the building itself, it’s the updated details that make all the difference. Room dividers, hanging art pieces, and lamps give the room dimension and much needed additional lighting and splashes of complementing tones of yellow and green on the chairs and pillars complete the welcoming experience.

Katie Cannon is the blogger behind Camacho Watcho as well as an up-and-coming Twin Cities photographer. She both works and plays in the Mill District of downtown Minneapolis.