Review: Piccolo

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Review: Piccolo

A 'choose-your-own adventure' tasting menu in an inviting...

Photos: Piccolo restaurant in Minneapolis

A look at the carefully crafted dishes at Piccolo

Piccolo Restaurant

A variety of tastes, on smallish—modern plate, offers an...

As its Italian name suggests, the first word that comes to mind about the dining experience at Picollo is "small." The restaurant itself is a cozy neighborhood spot with seating at a generously estimated maximum of twenty-five. The small size works in favor of the dining experience, however, as the minimal decor and warm candlelit glow focuses diners on two very important things: their companions and their food.

The genesis for the menu is a "modern approach", as the Web site states. True, the small plates concept does seem to be all the rage these days, but Piccolo takes this one step further in its reasoning by "…creating dishes moderate in portion size which [they] feel enhances the dining experience by allowing you more variety in taste while eating healthier." The concept is certainly a fresh approach to the giant portions of comfort food that we so often eat in restaurants, but its intent can get a bit confused.

The intention is not for diners to share small plates, as one might be more familiar in the tapas approach to dining, but rather to order several personal small plates for a meal. Although no one is keeping you from doing so at Piccolo, the waitstaff will correct that way of thinking, directing diners back to the intent of ordering several small plates individually. In fact, they go so far as to suggest three to five dishes per person for a dinner. One waiter likened this approach to a tasting menu, but where the diners get to choose their dishes. This concept is easier to understand, but with the hefty three to five dish suggestion, with dishes ranging from $7-$14, a casual evening out at a neighborhood eatery quickly adds up.

Taking the waiter's suggestion, my dining companion and I sampled six dishes ranging from escargot and sunchoke croquettes to gnocchi, black cod, roasted chicken and lamb. On the whole, dishes were well-executed with creative accents, like green apple mustard paired with sunchoke croquettes or hazelnut puree that accompanied the black cod. These dishes elevated the experience to quite memorable. Exceptions were the potato gnocchi dish which, between the undercooked white beans and the dry pasta, never quite came together and the lamb crepinette, the parts of which were nicely done, but together, felt forced.

Having eaten just three small plates, dessert was a definite must. Although all three options, were quite tempting, chocolate seemed a most appropriate end to the lighter feel of the meal. Chocolate terrine with dark raisins, crunchy chocolate pearls and pinecone syrup— well, I'll just let that description speak for itself. One bit of warningr: order your own. This perfect dessert, while large enough to do so, is clearly not meant to be shared.

The concept on a whole is well-conceived; small, individually ordered dishes that allow diners for a light, yet varied dining experience. I'm interested to see how this adopts into the neighborhood-y, casual setting which Piccolo provides. Three to five small plates, along with wine and coffee, can quickly add up but for someone seeking a well-paced, 'choose-your-own adventure' tasting menu concept in an inviting setting, Piccolo is the spot to try.