OM Contemporary Indian Cuisine

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Inside: OM's happy hour

We ducked into this glamorous Indian den for a drink

Photos of OM

We ducked into this glamorous Indian den for a drink

Achieving a peaceful state of mind is unlikely when visiting First Avenue. Bustling with the activities of the nightclub crowd, this area of downtown Minneapolis is full of restaurants and nightclubs—places to see and be seen. Fitting in with this vibe, but catering to a more mature audience is OM Contemporary Indian Cuisine, First Avenue's newest restaurant by chef Raghavan Iyer.

As far as the decor goes, opulent is the only word that can be used to describe the beautiful two-story lounge and restaurant where OM is located. From the furniture adorned with lush fabrics to its two story spiral chandelier and reflection pond below, OM exudes sophistication and practically begs guests to put on their fancy duds for a night on the town.

The upstairs lounge consists of a full service bar that features happy hour specials, including deals on several cocktails. Besides the bar itself, the lounge has several cozy nooks—inviting spots for small groups or couples to gather. Annie D'Souza covers the happy hour and bar area in more detail with her review of OM.

Tucked into a booth in the large downstairs dining room, we looked over the menu. While many familiar Indian flavors were listed among the menu items, that was where the familiarity ended. Like the restaurant, the menu is a contemporary concept—one the Iyer worked on to provide a modern experience to Indian cuisine. An example of this was the starter of fenugreek lamb chops we ordered—two tender chops accompanied by a creamy fenugreek sauce. Subtle in flavor, the sauce complemented but did not overpower the well-seasoned lamb. Pleasantly satisfied by this starter, we eagerly anticipated the arrival of our entrees and sides.

Presentation points on the entrees were a polarized experience. The vegetable curry casserole was presented like a shining star—a large casserole topped with a golden, flakey pastry and accompanied by a cone basket of flame-toasted lentil wafers. The Konkan Wild Salmon, on the other hand, was sadly presented as a thin salmon fillet swimming in a runny brown sauce. The tomatoes and cilantro did help to brighten up the dish, but overall it was not an appetizing display of food.

Presentation is one thing—flavor is quite another. The salmon, a poached fillet complemented by a light coconut curry, appealed to us the most. Our only complaint was that the salmon flavor itself was muted. Oddly enough, this was the exact reason why our waiter highly recommended it—"even someone who doesn't like salmon would like it"—but for those of us who enjoy the taste of salmon, that is actually not a good thing. Like the salmon, the vegetable curry dish had its merits and its faults. The pastry, while flakey and beautifully browned, tasted intensely of flour and did not add anything to the dish. Once inside the pastry, however, the flavors were nicely balanced, especially the bites of potato and cauliflower, which were permeated with intense seasoning. Adding an overall nutty balance to the casserole were the roasted cashews. But the flame-toasted lentil wafers? They definitely tasted toasted—like ashes, actually.

To accompany our meal, we also tried the peanut stuffed baby eggplants and naan, but neither were appealing. The eggplants were bitter (perhaps not quite ripe) and the peanut stuffing was bland. The naan was nothing like the lighter than air versions we've previously tasted, but rather it was quite dense. On a more flavorful note was the mango chutney, OM's version of hot sauce, that was quite good but should come with a label warning diners of its intense heat.

While I don't normally comment on desserts, the coconut creme brulee at OM deserves a bit of ink. Texturally, the creme brulee was excellent. The coconut bits added a nice contrast to the creamy custard filling and the taste, not overwhelmingly coconut, was spot on. The intriguing part of this dessert, however, (which still makes me scratch my head as I ponder whether I liked it or not) was the caramelized topping which exactly like marshmallows cooked over an open fire. Upon further investigation, we believe it was the charred cloves that gave it such a campfire taste. Perhaps the clove-scented Demerara (raw cane sugar) could be more subtle.

With such a varied experience with the menu at OM, I would lend diners one piece of advice. If you're looking for the rich flavors of curries and comforts of thick daals and fluffy naan, or "neighborhood Indian" as our waiter described it, you might consider dining elsewhere. Gandhi Mahal is a perfect spot these expectations. For a more modern take on Indian cuisine highlighted by lavish decor, OM Contemporary Indian Cuisine is a place to try.

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