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- Address:
- 800 Washington Ave N., Minneapolis, MN, 55402
- Overall User Rating:
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(0 ratings)
- Official Web Site:
- http://www.barlagrassa.com
Bar La Grassa, the highly anticipated new restaurant from Isaac Becker and Josh Thoma, is now open to the public. The Italian menu is approachable, yet distinctly sophisticated, which makes for a perfect fit for the Warehouse District crowd.
The space itself is transformed from the former sleek design of Babalu into an inviting, trendy-casual spot. A full service bar with high top tables make the waiting game a bit more comfortable until diners can be seated at a table in the main dining room or at the pasta bar. As for the decor, the dining area's dark wooden walls and antiqued mirrors exude a masculinity that is balanced by beautifully prepared food presented upon delicate, flowered dishware.
As for the menu—no matter your hunger level or taste, it seems Bar La Grassa is ready to accommodate with a well-balanced assortment of antipasti, bruschetta, dried and fresh pastas (in large and small sizes) and secondis. The entrees offer many protein options including pork, seafood and steak. Vegetarians will find several offerings among the pasta dishes.
We started our meal with two antipastis: Tallegio bigne with braised apple and artichoke caponata bruschetta. A savory version of the traditionally sweet Italian puff pastry, the bigne is split in two and layered with cheese. The pastry and cheese "sandwiches" were served atop spiced (heavy on the cloves), braised apples and a honey drizzle around the plate.
The second antipasti, bruschetta, was a single toast topped with chilled artichoke caponata. Although well executed, this dish in addition to the many other enticing bruschetta offerings, like the marinated pork shoulder or burrata and chili, may be less likely to appeal to diners at their $6-$13 price tag per order.
From the pasta selections, we sampled two dishes. The first was a dried pasta dish, calamarata with raw tuna, which featured diced tuna lightly coated in a citrus-herb sauce and served a top the noodles tossed in a fresno chile pesto. The flavor and texture complements, warm and cold, citrus and heat, succeeded in balance and uniqueness.
While the calamarata was good, the gnocchi with cauliflower and orange was truly unforgettable. Tossed in butter and sauteed to a light brown, the gnocchi had a texture so tender that it melted as it hit the tongue. The roasted cauliflower and orange began as delicate flavors but quickly built in sweetness before being cut by the gentle heat of a light sprinkle of red pepper flakes. The flavors of this dish in particular stayed with me, through the grilled pork rib entree (a good dish but one that fell short of the previous dishes) and dessert.
Bar La Grassa is indeed a restaurant of temptation and unique tastes. Although opened just recently, its immediate popularity and location make it a difficult spot to get a table. Once seated, however, the service is quick and extremely professional and the meal itself deems worthy of the wait.
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