Cheeky Monkey Deli in Selby

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When chef/owner Matt McArthur was brainstorming names for his new London style deli, he laughed-off the suggestion, “Cheeky Monkey.” But as offbeat ideas often do, the name stuck, and the Cheeky Monkey Deli in St. Paul was born.

With such a name, it would be easy to go over-the-top cutesy with the décor. Instead, Cheeky Monkey tastefully accomplishes bold (blood red walls), trendy (framed album covers and comics books on the walls), and sophisticatedly casual (chandeliers, leather armchairs and a fireplace in addition to the deli seating).

And the food? The menu is a roll-call of comfort-food favorites like the pot roast sandwich, out-there amusements like the hot Nutella (hazelnut spread) and banana sandwich, and nibblers like meat and cheese boards (available after 3 p.m.). We ordered several options including the pressed Cubano sandwich, deli roast beef sandwich, hot Nutella and banana sandwich and a meat and cheese board, as well as some homemade potato chips and coleslaw.

A number was issued, and after just a short trip to the beverage and service station, the food was delivered. Although the bread on the hot sandwiches was crusty and crisp and the condiments, veggies and cheeses were fresh, the seasoning on the chips, coleslaw and meats were, unfortunately, muted. Yes, the overall flavors blended well together in each dish, but they lacked the punch in the gut that I had expected from this menu.

The sandwich that did deliver as expected was the Nutella and banana sandwich, a dessert sandwich that unites the beautiful trio of ripe bananas, creamy Nutella and buttery crunchy bread. It’s crazy good.

A firm twist of the flavor dial would really punch up this menu, so there’s a lot of promise and optimism in a return visit. And since flying (cheeky) monkeys couldn’t keep me away from that Nutella sandwich, I’ll definitely be back.

Katie Cannon is the blogger behind Camacho Watcho as well as an up-and-coming Twin Cities photographer. She both works and plays in the Mill District of downtown Minneapolis.

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