Spontaneous Consumption: La Sirena Gorda

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When I first met Alfonso Menendez I thought all seafood was grilled and prepared with a bed of greens. You know, like at any numerous American-style eateries.

Oh, how wrong I was.

Over the past few years, Alfonso has taught me that seafood doesn't have to be predictable or staid. And all for under $10 bucks a meal.

Alfonso is the man behind La Sirena Gorda. Little more than a countertop and insanely small kitchen located in the maze of eateries at the Midtown Global Market, La Sirena Gorda doesn't look like much. A closer examination, though, reveals a restaurant worthy of much more luxurious accomodations. The menu fully encompasses the seafood experiences of Mexico, from octopus tacos to whole grilled tilapia. And the seafood itself is top notch. Sourced from the best local seafood providers, Alfonso's prices belie a deep commitment to quality. It's a part of his pedigree, I suppose. You see, Alfonso has a rich history of creating and managing quality seafood joints here in the Twin Cities. From his days as manager at Oceanaire to his first ownership experience at Babalu, Alfonso has always been a guy focused on quality. What makes La Sirena Gorda so great is that quality doesn't come at a steep price.

I walked in this last week and knew what I wanted. A seared tuna grill salad. I know, that takes away the spontaneity of this series, but at $9.95, it's a heck of a deal for lunch, and one of my all-time favorites from his menu. As usual, Alfonso offered a bit of amuse buche as my salad was prepared from scratch. Always looking to keep his customers happy, Alfonso offers small dishes while you wait. From fresh ceviche to spicy clam chowder, he's always generous with his free appetizers, and they usually make me second guess my meal selection. This time he came over with a steaming bowl of spicy clam chowder. Oh, so good.

Here's the thing about La Sirena Gorda: it wouldn't be the same without Alfonso. Yeah, he should probably be running a much fancier kitchen somewhere, wearing fancier clothes and talking to fancy people. But, he fits perfectly at this lunch counter seafood joint. He's engaging, he remembers people and he makes some excellent food. My girlfriend and I visited Alfonso many times during her pregnancy, and many times after our son's birth. Alfonso remembers her and my son every time we come. He even knows how old he is. I like the way that feels, the old time nature of my favorite seafood man.

The entree took about 10 mintues to make, but was worth the wait. Especially while sipping on some Mexican Coca-Cola (you know, the stuff made with cane sugar - it tastes so much better than what we have here, and as a bonus, comes in a glass bottle) and slurping Alfonso's chowder. The salad came and was amazing as usual. Spicy, citrusy and light, the salad balanced flavors, textures and spice perfectly. A hefty portion of tuna was seared just right, and, though I'm not usually a salad guy, this one filled me up.

An all-around triumph of seafood and price, La Sirena Gorda will challenge your expectations without putting a hole in your pocketbook. And once you meet Alfonso, I promise you'll keep coming back.