A guy walks into a bar: Barley John's Brew Pub

The look: Barley John’s Brew Pub reminds me of some roadside tavern you might visit on your way to the family cabin. Conspicuously rustic, it sits atop small hill overlooking a typical suburban intersection. And while the wraparound patio may be adrift in snow with brittle gnarls of vines clinging to the fences right now, it doesn’t take a wild imagination to see what an oasis from the nearby interstate it can be in the warmer months. But t he mirage of the Northwoods getaway doesn’t quite resonate inside the pub. The bar area right inside the door maintains the wooden, natural feel of the exterior but it’s too tight to feel relaxed and too bright to be cozy. Likewise, the main room is lit unflatteringly and has the naked ambience of a hotel lobby without the pictures of wolves and deer. There was some pretty groovy music, though.

The crowd: The crowd was naturally small on Tuesday night, made up almost entirely of men. But mixed couples and small groups steadily made their way through the door towards the later hours. Besides my brother and I, every customer seemed to know each other and the friendly staff. Apparently, Barley John’s is a neighborhood favorite.

The beer: Disregard my gripes about the feel of the place. Barley John’s is about the beer and they’re doing a bang-up job. As a testament to the success of their brewers, beer they offer is a good example of the style. For instance, the Light Barley Bitter is crisp, not too strong, and very bitter. And they don’t rely on gimmicks (blueberry-honey hefeweizen, etc.) or over-hopping their beer to please their craft beer fans. Instead they let the quality of their brews speak for themselves through a balanced spectrum of beer styles. 

My Brother and I took one look at the menu and wasted no time delving into the heavy hitters. The reputation of their seasonal stout is legendary; I have overheard more than a few beer fans relishing the memory of the “Dark Knight Returns.” This imperial stout is aged in casks that once held 15-year old bourbon and holds all the flavor and complexity of both potent potables. Dark as midnight, it lives up to the name and delivers hearty satisfaction with the flavors of coffee, molasses, and chocolate laced with the smoky honey of the bourbon. Sweeeet! (But not sugary.) Prudently served in a 5.5 oz glass, the “Dark Knight Returns” weighs in at 13.5% alcohol and packs a wallop, but it is meant to sipped and savored. You should have no problem nursing this beer for the duration of the good conversation the slow buzz will inspire.

Frigid weather calls for drastic measures, so we stuck to the deep, dark beers. The “Old 8 Porter” (named for Old Highway 8 on which Barley John’s is located, or perhaps for it’s 8% alcohol) was everything you want a porter to be. It was dark as black coffee, rich as red wine, toasty, bitter, and just a little sweet. Like the “Dark Knight,” it is the kind of beer that puts meat on your bones and hair on your chest.

I spoke with assistant brewer Colin Mullen earlier in the day and he sadly informed me that their most popular beer, the Wild Brunette (Wild Rice Brown Ale), was currently unavailable due an imbalance of supply and demand. The implication is that the Wild Brunette is at least as good as the brews that were available, and for that alone I will return.

The food: Typical pub fare: soup, salads, starters, sandwiches, and sss…uh, even full-blown entrees. Forget the bells and whistles, the food at Barley John’s is the equivalent of a good blues song: four chords and the truth. In other words: simple, straightforward, and satisfying.

The verdict: Barley John’s Brew Pub is the anti-Herkimer. If you’re looking for action, a hip scene, or a place to pick up some late-night company, stay Uptown. If you’re looking for a particular vibe, you will have to set the tone yourself. But if you’re searching for high quality beer that has been brewed on the premises, Barley John’s is worth the trip. Strictly in terms of the beer, this is probably the best brew pub in the Twin Cities.

Add a comment