A guy walks into a bar: Cooper Irish Pub

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The look: When I hear the word “pub” I think of a cozy little tavern with a fireplace surrounded by wooden tables and booths packed with people engaged in conversation. Cooper Pub and Restaurant isn’t so quaint. There is scope and grandeur reminiscent of The Local in downtown Minneapolis (they're both owned by Kieran Folliard), but with a more delicate touch to the décor. There are two large dining areas with subtly different atmospheres, plenty of comfortable new barstools horsehoed around the central bar, and a more casual space with raised tables, counters, a pool table and a dartboard. From the frames of the ceiling-high mirrors lining one of the dining room walls to the curved wooden legs of all the chairs, every aspect of the room has an ornamental touch, a little frilly even. It’s a very nice space, yet I couldn’t shake the impression that I was in a toned-down Cheesecake Factory. That is not to say that Cooper is without touches of authentic character. The light fixtures above the bar are discretely mismatched, which I found appealing. And there is a small island of stone rising up from the floor in one of the dining rooms that our server said gives the power of perseverance to the one who touches it. Sounds like so "blarney” to me, but fun enough.

Oh, and for those of you who with a tendency to hole-up in the winter, I believe it is worth noting that Cooper has free, heated underground parking (complete with low-volume, easy-listening muzak).

The crowd: Just as I underestimated the size of the restaurant itself, I underestimated how busy Cooper would be during happy hour on a Tuesday evening. St. Louis Park was clearly in need of a fresh option among its bars and restaurants. Within half an hour of my arrival, the room was about 80% full with diners and drinkers of all ages. Families dined, young women gabbed over drinks and appetizers, office groups unwound together around the pool table, and those notorious “ladies who lunch” were staying out a little later to check out the new hot spot in the neighborhood.

The drinks: I went straight for the first thing that comes to mind when entering an Irish pub: Guinness. I was only minutely disappointed. It was served in a proper 20 ounce Imperial pint glass with the Guinness name adorning its breast. An inch of rich, creamy head capped the top of the still-settling stout. Ahhh…smooth, slightly bitter, chocolatey goodness. My only complaints were that there was no shamrock carved into the foamy head (which—now that I think about it—sure seems like something Americans would add anyway). I guess I have two complaints;t there were no other Irish stouts on tap. Guinness is great, but Murphy’s gives it a run for its money out of any fresh keg.

There was a slightly intimidating list of Irish whiskeys and an ample selection of specialty cocktails that needed to be sampled. Saving the straight liquor for my nightcap I considered my cocktail options. I was hoping to find some creative concoction using Irish whiskey in a cocktail, an Irish Manhattan or something of the sort. I found little to choose from. What I did find were two cocktails involving Jameson and ginger. I passed up the Jameson and ginger ale for something more original and ordered the “O’Ginger,” Jameson Irish whiskey, a blend of ginger and honey, and a splash of fresh orange juice. It was refreshing, sweet but not saccharine, and bright, but nothing remarkable. I realized that there is probably a good reason you don’t see a lot of cocktails containing Irish whiskey.

Upon the recommendation of the owner—and seconded by my server—I ordered a Redbreast 10 year Irish whiskey to top off my night. I like Jameson, but I am more of a bourbon drinker, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. The Redbreast was a simmering honey-gold color and sweeter than I expected, but still had the peaty herbaceous quality that I associate with scotch. What I thought would be an obligatory sample for my experience ended up being the most pleasant drink of the night. Thanks, Kieran!

The food: You will find some of the stereotypical dishes you'd expect at an Irish establishment, but there is much more than fish and chips. For the most part, it’s standard British Isles/American fare. The menu at Cooper is familiar enough to keep the masses happy and creative enough to keep them interested—and all of it very modestly priced.

The verdict: Cooper may not satisfy my notion of what a pub should be, but that is my problem, not Cooper’s. After all the term “pub” is short for “public house,” a gathering spot for the people. And I predict that Cooper will be very successful at living up to that notion. What can I say? Cooper is solid. I didn’t have any particular affection for it, but I also couldn’t find much fault in it. For most occasions it would be a good place to go, just not an exceptional one.

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