The look: Just outside the heart of downtown, one of Minneapolis’ most established Thai restaurants sits in the basement of a hotel-turned-apartment building. The garden level courtyard of the King & I is used as a multi-layered patio reminiscent of the terraced farmlands of Southeast Asia. Inside, the dining room is simple but classy, decorated with statues of sultry goddesses and elaborately dressed elephants. Next door, the lounge has a more private feel. The dim lighting and low ceiling suggest the sort of establishment where one might procure the services of a certain Millennium Falcon.
The crowd: At 11 p.m. on a Thursday night, the lounge was nearly full. Young couples on dates, service industry employees, and a few professionals looking for a late meal after a long night all mingled contentedly.
The drinks: I bellied up to the bar and perused the happy hour drink menu. When my affable bartender Geoffrey appeared to take my order I asked him to surprise me. Geoffrey raised his eyebrows thoughtfully and stepped away. When he returned he presented me with a large golden cocktail rimmed with red sugar and brimming with bits of lime and orange. The “Royal Rita” is a blend of Sauza Gold tequila, Cointreau, tart passionfruit, ginger, and fresh lime. On a damp and grey evening the “Royal Rita” was a portal to a more accommodating setting. With so much fruit I expected to be overwhelmed with sweetness. But the “Royal Rita” was primarily tart, with bright citrus flavors and a subtle and unexpected bitterness.
Emboldened by my tropical aperitif, I moved away from the happy hour menu and into the house specialties. The King and I offers a flight of all six of their house-infused martinis so, with the help of a friend, I sampled all six. Although all of them were well-garnished and well-prepared, far and away the most impressive was the “Thai Martini.” Bombay Sapphire is infused with kaffir lime leaves, ginger, and Thai chili in this powerful drink with the aroma of succulent green curry. The taste of the kaffir lime comes on first and settles into the slow burn of the chilies. I could feel the humidity in the room intensify after the first sip.
The food: The menu is an index of traditional Thai cuisine, precisely prepared. Unlike many Thai restaurants in the Twin Cities, the King and I doesn’t dumb down their spice; if you ask for something to be spicy, it’s going to be HOT.
The verdict: The King and I Thai lounge may feel more like a club than a neighborhood bar, but it functions as the local watering hole for people who call downtown their home. With nightly DJs and happy hours from 4:30-6 p.m. and 10 p.m.-midnight, the lounge is an appealing destination, especially if you are craving something exotic.
